Bare aluminum oxidizes into a dull grey bloom within weeks. The trick is knowing what kind of aluminum you have before the cloth ever touches it.
Bare or anodized?
Anodized aluminum has a hard, often colored, oxide layer added on purpose — bike components, flashlights, many modern trim parts. We will remove that layer, so do not polish anodized parts. Rub an inconspicuous spot with a little paste: if the cloth picks up color or the finish changes, stop.
Bare and previously polished aluminum — vintage brake levers, wheels, older aircraft skin, boat fittings — is exactly what we are made for.
Clearing the bloom
Oxidized aluminum turns the cloth black quickly. That is normal. Work small sections, change to clean cloth often, and keep going until the grey bloom gives way to a bright, reflective surface.
Scratches and sanding
For deep scratches, some restorers first sand by hand with very fine paper, around 400 grit and then finer, before polishing. We remove the fine sanding marks; we do not remove gouges on our own.
Keeping it bright
After the final buff, the thin film we leave slows the next round of oxidation. Wipe polished aluminum with a dry cloth after rides or rain, and touch it up before the bloom sets in again.
